Introducing Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Tribute to The Celestial

Every year, Vacheron Constantin expands its offerings as part of the Métiers d'Art program, emphasizing exceptional craftsmanship. In 2021, the Maison showcased the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery, a stunning sapphire-set watch that features all the complications listed in its name but is crafted as a unique piece. This year, the brand has launched twelve individual references (with limited production of each reference), each featuring a blue sunburst dial that depicts a hand-guilloché zodiac sign and its corresponding constellation, with the main stars highlighted through brilliant-cut diamonds. The four dials showing human figures also have opaline details. The idea of transforming hand-guilloché into abstract patterns and then converting them into figurative ones was developed by Vacheron's master guillocher.

The watches measure 39mm in diameter by 10.7mm thick, crafted in white gold. The bezel, lugs, crown, and deployant clasp are set with 96 baguette-cut blue sapphires (approximately 3.87 carats). That setting requires 27 hours of work, including the channel setting on the bezel. The dial has white gold applied indices. 

To achieve the finish of the dial, eight different steps are required. An 18K 5N gold disk is marked with the outlines of the constellations and zodiac. Next is the sunburst finish and any opaline details, prior to the hand-guillochage of the zodiac and cutting for the tourbillon aperture. After this, the blue color is applied. To show the defined map of each constellation, the dial is further machined to reveal the gold dial base. Next comes a protective varnish, followed by the transfer-stamping of the minutes and seconds tracks, Vacheron Constantin's name, the application of the indexes, and the Maltese Cross emblem. Finally, the setting of the diamonds is completed.

The watches are powered by the thin Calibre 2160, which measures only 5.65mm in thickness, despite being an automatic tourbillon movement. With a 22K gold peripheral oscillating weight and an impressive 80 hours of power reserve, this is one of Vacheron's premier movements. Each movement has a Geneva seal, with perlage on the mainplate, hand-bevelled bridges, Côtes de Genève, circular-grained wheels, and chamfered and polished screws. As is the standard for Vacheron, the tourbillon cage is shaped like a Maltese cross.

Each of the twelve references is limited in production but not unique. The price has been given as "On Request" but reported by a source as €240,000 (including VAT).

As a Cancer, I appreciate these new watches from Vacheron and will be sensitive about it if you tell me I'm wrong. At least, that's what my horoscope-loving friends would say about me. Earlier this year, Patek Philippe also launched a set of Calatrava references featuring zodiac enameling in grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges, cloisonné, and paillonné enamel. However, as beautiful as the grisaille work was, I prefer the Cancer "crab" in these Vacheron releases to the reference. 5177G-041. It doesn't hurt that the tourbillon movement from Vacheron is a standout above the caliber 240 from Patek. The sapphire-set case is a bit louder but looks beautifully done.

Gem-setting is an underappreciated art; it's too easy to dismiss the craft as "bling" for its own sake, but it's truly a remarkable craft. But if you don't like that, you have to give respect to the guillocher at Vacheron that came up with this interesting geometric art. I've been somewhat critical of Vacheron's Métiers d'Art in the past as some of the watches they base their pieces around can sometimes be a bit flat when I'd like to see them push their sizing and creativity. Well, they've certainly done that here. If you want to see what your zodiac sign looks like in the eyes of a Vacheron artist, I'm including photos of each individual reference below.

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Métiers d'Art Tribute to The Celestial

Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.7mm
Case Material: White gold
Dial Color: Blue with hand-guilloché zodiac sign
Indexes: Applied and printed
Lume: None
Water Resistance: Not given
Strap/Bracelet: Blue alligator strap with sapphires on the buckle

Caliber: Calibre 2160
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds on one-minute tourbillon cage
Diameter: 5.65mm
Thickness: 29.1mm
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Automatic peripheral winding
Frequency: 18,000 bph
Jewels: 31
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: 96 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~3.87  carats) used on the case, crown, and buckle

Price: €240,000 (including VAT)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, limited production of each reference.

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