IntroducingThe Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, Now With Two New Dials (Live Pics)

Vacheron Constantin continues to roll out some stunning watches for the brand's 270th Anniversary. The second notable launch of the Overseas line (after the wildly complicated Overseas Grand Complication), the brand has announced two new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models. In 18k white gold with a burgundy lacquered and sunburst dial and in 18k 5N pink gold with a rose gold tone-on-tone dial, these models are built on the same base that has existed for seven years now. But what a difference a dial makes.

Inside the 41.5mm by 8.1mm cases is the Calibre 1120 QP/1, an impressively thin 29.6mm by 4.05mm automatic movement running at 19,800 vph, but with a relatively low 40-hour power reserve (likely due to the thinness restricting mainspring barrel size). The watches I photographed were pre-production models, so I don't have pictures of the movement, but I've seen this watch several times. The image below from Vacheron's previous releases is representative of the "Geneva Seal" movement with perlage and Geneva stripes. Again, this is a perpetual calendar with hours, minutes, day, date, month, and leap year indicator (the latter functions adjusted via pushers set into the side of the case), so the fact that the movement is so thin is impressive. 

The rose gold lacquer dial features largely white printing. However, the leap year months and the five-minute indication in the rehaut are rendered in a light blue, the same as you'd find on all previous models of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The moonphase is also silver-toned to match the case.

The 18k 5N rose gold version has a tonal look for the dial, with a gold moonphase, black printing, and the same light blue additional color as well. The rose gold is an interesting and striking look, and one that looks far more yellow than rose in certain lighting situations. It gives the watch a very distinct vintage feel, similar to the Vacheron Constantin 222 in yellow gold.

These new releases are not limited editions, but they are boutique exclusives. The retail price at launch is €111,650 before VAT, or approximately $130,000.

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is one of the first watches I reviewed for Hodinkee, even before I started working here full-time. I've got a soft spot for it, but it's more than just nostalgia. The openworked versions are incredibly legible while the standard version is still a great looking watch. The quick-change system gives more versatility than some other analogous integrated-bracelet sports watches on the market.

I really did like the vintage feeling I got from the tonal approach to the rose gold version, which doesn't clash with the light blue accents on the dial. The burgundy, however, felt a bit odd with those same blue accents. A charcoal might have matched better. My biggest request, if I could make one, is that Vacheron make this watch in yellow gold. Granted, this is a look that Audemars Piguet already made with their version of the RD#2 made for the Chinese market, the ref. 26586BA, but it's one that I do think would work well here as well.

The new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin options are certainly for customers who are far bolder than I am. The red dial is incredibly eye-catching and might be for people who either love red or are looking for a bit more attention to a really cool (and pricey) watch. The rose gold, on the other hand, requires a whole different kind of person to wear it—someone with a lot of confidence or who spends a lot of time in Miami. Either way, I don't think that Vacheron will have trouble finding plenty of wrists for these new dials.

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Reference Number: 4300V/220G-H151 (White gold); 4300V/220R-H144 (Rose Gold)

Diameter: 41.5mm
Thickness: 8.1mm
Case Material: White or rose gold
Dial Color: Sunburst satin-finished lacquered burgundy or rose gold
Indexes: Applied and printed
Lume: SuperLuminova on hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: White gold, white rubber, or burgundy rubber; rose gold, white rubber, blue rubber

Caliber: Vacheron 1120/3 QP
Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, moon phase, leap year shown by 48 months counter, day
Diameter: 29.6mm
Thickness: 4.05mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 VPH
Jewels: 36
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Poinçon de Genève

Price: Approximately $130,000
Availability: Now, at Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Limited Edition: No

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