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What We Know
On June 26, 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet patented one of the most iconic and beloved (despite of – or maybe because of – their anachronistic qualities) ideas in watchmaking: the tourbillon. However, I was shocked to discover that, as of yesterday, Breguet had never released a flying tourbillon—that being a tourbillon that is supported on only one side, rather than by a bridge or multiple points of contact, giving the effect of the regulating organ floating in mid-air. Well, 224 years to the day after the patent of the tourbillon, Breguet just announced a 50-piece limited edition with the brand's first-ever flying tourbillon, the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255.
First things first, this is not a "Sidéral time" watch – meaning that the watch keeps standard time in the way you'd want it for day-to-day use. Instead, the term means "related to the stars"; in this context, the brand is referring to the use of aventurine enamel for the dial, which is also a first for Breguet.
The Breguet numerals are applied, rendered in the 250th anniversary style Breguet gold to match the hands, as well as the "Breguet" and "Tourbillon" applied elements, and the case and movement bridges. The watch measures 38mm by 10.2mm in an Empire-style case with long straight lugs and coin-edge caseband.
The movement is the Calibre 187M1, which takes the concept of the flying tourbillon further by adding a "mystery" design. The tourbillon cage is held in place within the sapphire aperture, where the arm connecting the cage to a sapphire disc with an outer geared ring.
That ring imparts power to the movement where it connects, hidden by the movement plate and dial, giving the impression that the arm (and the rest of the tourbillon) is connected to nothing. The movement features a 50-hour power reserve, operating at 18,000 bph, with the one-minute tourbillon serving as the subsidiary seconds indicator, while the time is displayed on the offset hour and minute hands.
The watch is limited to 50 numbered pieces, and pricing is available upon request (presumably requests from special clients). I requested the price and have yet to hear back. I will update the story should the price be shared.
What We Think
Abraham-Louis Breguet viewed the tourbillon like he viewed celestial bodies – an object rotating on a fixed axis. It seems appropriate that the first flying tourbillon would fully lean into the idea of a fixed body rotating freely in space, not connected to anything. Of course, that's not truly the case, but it's quite a cool effect. Most people probably know this "mysterious" effect more from the resurgence of interest and record-breaking auction sales of Cartier "Mystery Clocks" or watches, such as the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse (the brand's water clocks employ a slightly different principle). It's a deceptively ingenious idea that's worth exploring in a future story.
The success of these mystery watches is largely about the effect, and while I haven't seen this watch in person (yet), the effect looks quite impressive. The rest of the watch works incredibly well. I'll always be a fan of this case design, although some people may find the aventurine enamel a bit too loud for their taste. Imagine a black Grand Feu enamel dial with this case. I can already sense collectors around the world losing their minds at the idea.
The Basics
Brand: Breguet
Model: Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255
Reference Number: 7255BH/2Y/9VU
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 10.2mm
Case Material: 18K Breguet gold
Dial Color: Grand feu aventurine enamel
Indexes: Breguet gold hour-circle, satin-brushed, blue PVD, applied Breguet Arabic numerals, "Breguet" and "Tourbillon" applied elements in 18K Breguet gold
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Navy blue alligator leather, large scales, lined with navy blue alligator leather, small scales, 18K Breguet gold 3-blade folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: Calibre 187M1
Functions: Off-centred hours and minutes, small seconds on flying tourbillon cage
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 4.8mm
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Jewels: 23
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Bridges in 18K Breguet gold, Quai de l'Horloge guilloché and côtes de Genève finishing, "Mystery" flying tourbillon
Pricing & Availability
Price: Available Upon Request
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 50 numbered pieces
For more, click here.
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