IntroducingJ.N. Shapiro's First Complication, A Monopusher Chronograph

Just last night, a small group of collectors in Massachusetts took delivery of a special project from one of America's premier watchmakers, J.N. Shapiro. The new "Escapement" (the name of the group) monopusher chronograph represents a new frontier for Shapiro as it's his first complication. While this watch was made in a small, limited edition run of 14 pieces, all already allocated to collectors from the Escapement group, Shapiro has told me that the concept will be the basis for a future similar release (as one with a dramatically different flair).

The watch measures 38.5mm by 10.7mm in steel and is powered by the La Joux Perret 5000 for Ming, based on the Techniques Horlogères Appliquées monopusher movement that powered things like the original beloved Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. The use of the movement is in part thanks to J.N. Shapiro's membership in the Alternative Horological Alliance, which was founded last year around this time, with members including Ming and Fleming. Their collaborative efforts helped bring this movement to Shapiro's door, as Ming has used this movement in the past, and it features the same 5N rose gold-coated and skeletonized bridges and hand-polished angles.

While Shapiro has expanded in recent years to "Made in America" watchmaking, this watch returns to the roots of what first caught collectors' attention, namely dial craft. The dial has a central area in blackened zirconium with "progressive basketweave." Shapiro explained that they started with a basketweave featuring three bars, then progressed to four bars, then six, and finally to eight. If you look closely, you'll see how that weave grows in fineness. The 30-minute counter subdial features the brand's signature "Infinity" weave (and the infinity symbol made its way to the crown pusher as well). The time-telling aspects are rendered in rose gold, and the chronograph aspects are in silver.

While the chronographs were custom commissions and not for sale, Shapiro shared their price—$35,500—which should help frame the basis for future collectors thinking about whether they might want to pick up any upcoming release.

I think I speak for many of us at Hodinkee when I say that I'm rooting for Shapiro's success in pushing the boundaries of American watchmaking. I also have a soft spot for chronographs from the United States, which were largely only made by Waltham prior to the early 1900s, when "dollar watches" flooded the market with a race to the bottom of quality. No, this is not "Made in America" in the way that Waltham was (nor Shapiro's own previous "Resurgence" release), but there's something charming about the idea and lineage of the work.

One of the issues with using the LJP5000 movement (or THA) was that the great achievement was the compact size. That might sound like a benefit, but when you try to case it up into a watch that fits a more modern audience versus the original 34mm wide Tortue, it leaves a caseback view that suffers a bit from the "Patek 5070" issue: small movement, big blank case back. That's basically the only thing that detracts from an otherwise very attractive watch, especially from the dial side where Shapiro's talent with engine-turning really stands out. I'll be curious to see where he takes this idea next.

Brand: J.N. Shapiro
Model: Monopusher Chronograph

Diameter: 38.5mm
Thickness: 10.7mm
Case Material: 316 Stainless steel
Dial Color: Blackened zirconium with progressive basketweave; sub-dial with 'Infinity' weave
Indexes: Time-telling aspects in rose gold and the chronograph aspects are in silver
Lume: No
Water Resistance: Not provided
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator

Caliber: La Joux Perret 5000 for Ming (based on the Techniques Horlogères Appliquées Monopusher movement)
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph, monopusher chronograph with 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Manual winding
Frequency: 21,600 bph
Jewels: 23
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: 5N rose gold-coated and skeletonized bridges, hand-polished angles

Price: $35,500
Availability: Not for sale
Limited Edition: The watch was limited to 14 pieces. Shapiro has plans to use the movement for future watches in both similar and different styles.

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