Introducing The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series

Biver, now two years old, has recently announced the final version of its inaugural model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon, with what the brand is calling its Signature Series. Based on their original Calibre JCB-001-B, the two models come in either titanium or two-tone titanium and 18-karat rose gold cases. The matching dials are crafted from 18-karat white gold and titanium, or 18-karat rose gold and titanium, with applied white gold chemin de fer outer tracks.

We've covered the Biver Carillon Tourbillon pretty extensively in the past. It was a bold way to launch the brand, which has been iterated on a few times with different Metiers d'Art-driven releases. The original launch focused largely on stone dials (a favorite of founder Jean-Claude Biver). Last year, Biver followed up with an "Automatique" time-only model, accompanied by a suite of updated versions. But the framework of the first Automatiques is vintage-inspired, with multi-textured dials. The new Signature Series follows, closing off the dial that previously displayed the tourbillon. That aesthetic now matches the vintage-inspired case, which features longer lugs similar to those found on some vintage Patek models.

The watches are paired with titanium or titanium and rose gold bracelets that feature micro-adjust that allows for 4mm of extra space on the bracelet. The brand is now offering a pair of matching cufflinks for an additional cost, a feature also offered by brands like Patek and AP. The hand-brushed gold inlays are framed by a concave bezel, referencing the finish and architecture of the corresponding watches, which also feature top-to-bottom hand finishing. The price for the watches is CHF 475,000.

My quick take is that these are the best-looking versions of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon yet, so it's a perfect sendoff for the brand's inaugural model. The Biver brand received a lot of criticism for its initial appearance on the stage, particularly with the release of such a high-priced first model. Pierre Biver has told me that they felt starting with something simpler wouldn't have necessarily garnered as much attention, and it would have been harder to move upmarket. I agree. But while I liked that model and thought the finishing was quite nice, I think these are far and away better.

I'm not much of a two-tone guy, but the dial of that model looks solid. The titanium is far more to my taste. But speaking of solid, what feels like the most significant aesthetic improvement is closing the dial and hiding the tourbillon. It's a very Patek-like thing to do (for those who didn't know, Patek never shows the tourbillon on the dial side unless the watch has a sapphire display) and would be a good match for anyone wanting to match their Automatique.

Brand: Biver
Model: Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Titanium and Two-Tone

Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 13.7mm
Case Material: Titanium or Titanium & 18k Rose Gold
Dial Color: Titanium and 18k white gold or Titanium and 18k rose gold
Indexes: Applied white gold chemin de fer
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Titanium or titanium and rose gold bracelet with titanium folding clasp, with micro adjustment

Caliber: JCB-001-B
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Carillon Minute Repeater, Tourbillon
Diameter: 34mm
Thickness: 7.1mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic via bi-directional platinum micro-rotor
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Jewels: 44
Additional Details: 374 components; Sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating; Display caseback with sapphire crystal

Price: CHF 475,000
Availability: Now from the brand's online boutique, their Hong Kong lounge, or from retail partners, including exclusively at Material Good in the US
Limited Edition: Yes, 5 pieces of the two-tone, 2 of the titanium

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